By Michael Patrick

Depending on if you grew up in this neck of the woods, mainly Madison County. You had at one time or another driven down Route 31 toward Syracuse or possibly returning from “the city,” passing by what most of us locals know as “Johnnies Clam Shed,” now known more as “Pier 31.” It’s always been “Pier 31” but we just referred to it as “Johnnies.” Just say that to anyone around and they would know exactly where you were speaking. So for the sake of this article we will call it “Johnnies” since I am the one writing this column, I’m a local, so I win!

This family run business has been in the Hadyk family for decades. If I were to venture an uneducated guess “5” may be close but that would be just a guess. By the way, there truly is a pier or dock located right behind the building for you to tie up your boat and venture on in for a bite or beverage.

Popular in the summer with boaters and the “beach “ crowd, or winter with the ice fisherman and ladies, of course the snowmobilers, who can drive directly from the lake right up to the side door. You will find it easy to locate even if you have been a “local” living under a rock or a visitor new to the area. From the intersection of Routes 31 and 13, take Route 31 west toward Syracuse approximately half-mile on the right, with a large area to park directly in front and to the west of the building, additional spots are in the back, tons of room.

Great bar area segregated from the dining room, not huge but cozy and inviting. You could definitely hand out there for awhile and meet a bunch of new friends you never knew you had. Play a little “Quick Draw” while munching on their vast array of snacks.

There are not many days you walk into the bar and not see “Johnnie” himself distributing his wonderful libations, with beer as cold as a stone. If there is a drink out there, he can concoct it, trust me, it will be perfect. You can order anything off the menu at the bar, but it is usually littered with appetizers, and any of the patrons that placed the order seems very content in sharing with all.

The day of my visit they had fresh deep fried smelt. A treat that would be hard to locate anywhere else except a locals kitchen. This brought back memories of a group of old friends and me trekking to Lake Ontario on a midnight vigil to nab these minuscule creatures. You know- campfire, beer, beat up old folding chairs, smelting nets and enough bull to fill a bus.

Back to the food. For the 6 or 7 dollars they charge for this delicious little swimmer, you receive a plate of at least 12 to 20. I lost count after a half dozen because I was in tiny fishy heaven. I decided I was going to OD on the whole fried fish thing so after the smelt I ordered and happily indulged in their famous “Perch Dinner.” OMG as our teens of today would say or text; completely different flavor than the smelt, milder, flakier, a little larger, but still small in comparison to cod or haddock, but wonderful. Not heavily battered to hide the true taste, just a little tartar sauce and enjoy the ride. A half-pound of these little devils doesn’t sound like much but trust me “The Travel Channels” Man vs. Food has nothing on me, I can eat and I had topped out!

Smelt and Perch, a true fish lover’s paradise. Thank god for cholesterol reducing drugs with my choices on this trip. Once in awhile you need to let go and I surely had. A nice touch I had neglected to mention was the small bowl of fresh celery, carrots, and radishes with a little ranch dressing for dipping brought to each table before you even order. I think it cleans your pallet like that tiny lemon sherbet cone they give you in some establishments, except this has to be healthier. Maybe it’s just a buffer for all of the fried goodies yet to come, don’t know, don’t care, they were good.

My Vodka Gimlet was tasting yummy right now (kudos to John) as I perused the table and gawk at the dinners my guests had ordered. The younger of table mates chose his fishy favorite, fried haddock (not Hadyk) with fries. He didn’t come up for air too often so my guess is that he thoroughly enjoyed his dish. My lady guest decided it was time to tackle a plate full of “Snow Crab” legs. A daunting task when the waitress comes out of the kitchen and all you see are these appendages hanging off the platter in every direction. I think that is part of the attraction with that “I can do this” attitude when it lands in front of you.

She was having a blast cracking, smashing, twisting, and turning those spindly spines any way she could to get the delectable meat that awaited the victor. The other two of us at the table were finished with our meals while she was still fighting the fight, but stated that it was well worth it, guess those “Deadliest Catch” guys know their stuff!

Johnnies is not a fast food stop and I was thankful for that. To sit there peacefully along the wall of windows looking out over the lake, quietly thanking it for some of my delicious goodness I had enjoyed that night. Surrounded by a more than pleasant and capable wait staff, some true Hadyk family, some not, but all are family once they walk through those doors to serve up some of the finer meals in Central NY when it comes to seafood. I would not be able to speak in regards to the other items listed on the menu as I have never been able to get past the perch on any of my previous visits. But from the size of the crowd they must be doing something right.

Prices can seem a little high at first glance, but if you have ever fished for and then cleaned hundreds of these sea creatures before, you will understand why they need to charge the prices that they do for these special meals. The remainder of the menu is very affordable and extensive offering something for any taste bud. It is worth the investment in your time and money, take that drive to Johnnies Pier 31, order a basket of perch, sit back and enjoy life, I did that night and will again!

Thumbs Up!

Madison County resident Michael Patrick studied journalism, is a former restaurant owner and a “foody.”